Spaghetto alla Milanese

Method

1. Prepare the broth: if using demiglass, dilute with water. Add saffron to the warm broth and set aside.
2. Bring a large pot of water to a boil, salt it generously, and add the spaghetti.
3. While the pasta cooks, make the gremolata: finely chop lemon zest (avoid white pith), then parsley leaves, then garlic. Mix with a generous drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil and a squeeze of lemon juice. Set aside.
4. In a large pan, melt a knob of butter with a ladle of the saffron broth. Add a pinch of salt.
5. After the spaghetti has cooked for 2–3 minutes (still very al dente), use tongs to transfer it to the pan with the butter-broth mixture.
6. Add some pasta cooking water and more broth to the pan. Continue cooking the pasta, stirring often, and adding more liquid as needed, in the style of a risotto ('risottatura').
7. During the cooking, add another knob of butter for extra creaminess.
8. When the pasta is al dente, turn off the heat. Finish mantecatura (creaming) by stirring in a little more butter; do not add cheese at this stage to avoid stringiness.
9. To plate, use tongs to twirl the spaghetti into a nest on a serving plate. Spoon a little of the cooking sauce over the top. Sprinkle with the gremolata, grate some Grana Padano over it, and garnish with a few saffron pistils if desired.
10. Serve immediately.