Spaghetti with Butter and Anchovies

Method

1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and add the spaghetti.
2. In a bowl, mash the anchovy fillets with a fork into a paste (if using salt-cured, rinse and chop finely).
3. Add the softened butter (pomade) and a pinch of lemon zest to the anchovy paste, then whisk until smooth and creamy. Set aside.
4. In a wide pan, coarsely grind black pepper and toast over low heat until fragrant.
5. Add a ladle of pasta cooking water to the pan and raise the heat.
6. Cook the spaghetti 2 minutes less than the package directions, then transfer to the pan with a pair of tongs.
7. Toss the pasta in the pan, adding more cooking water as needed, and cover briefly to finish cooking.
8. When the pasta is al dente and the sauce is slightly thickened, reduce the heat to low.
9. Add the anchovy-butter cream and the capers (rinsed if desired) and stir vigorously off or over the lowest heat to form a creamy emulsion.
10. If the sauce is too thick, loosen with a splash of pasta water.
11. Serve immediately in a bowl, garnish with extra lemon zest and/or grated bottarga if using.