Spaghetti alla Milanese

Method

1. Using a zester, remove the zest (thin outer layer) from the lemon and set aside.
2. Finely chop 10 g of leek (porro).
3. Remove the germ from one garlic clove, chop it finely, and place it in a large pan.
4. Add 1 tsp of clarified butter (or extra virgin olive oil) to the pan and start sautéing over very low heat.
5. Add 40 g of bone marrow (from ossobuco) and 3 anchovy fillets in oil to the pan and let them melt into the fat.
6. Once melted, turn the heat to high and add half a glass (about 100 ml) of dry white wine. Let the alcohol evaporate and the wine reduce.
7. Add the chopped leek and continue cooking over high heat until the leek softens and the liquid reduces.
8. Add 1 tsp of triple-concentrated tomato paste and stir well. The mixture will darken and become creamy.
9. Season with a little black pepper. (Do not add salt; the anchovies and broth will provide enough.)
10. Pour in about 250 ml of ossobuco broth (out of 500 ml total) and bring to a boil over high heat.
11. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a boil, add coarse salt, and cook 300 g of XXL spaghetti (bronze-drawn) for half the time indicated on the package.
12. While the pasta cooks, reduce the pan sauce over medium-high heat until it is thick and creamy. The leek should have disappeared into the sauce.
13. Add the remaining 250 ml of broth to the pan and bring to a boil again.
14. When the pasta is half-cooked, drain it and add it to the boiling sauce. Lower the heat to medium-low.
15. Continue cooking the pasta in the sauce as you would for risotto, adding ladlefuls of pasta cooking water a little at a time until the pasta is al dente and the sauce is creamy.
16. Add the saffron powder or crushed saffron threads and stir well. Keep the heat low.
17. Remove the pan from the heat. Add a handful of chopped fresh parsley and 10 g of room-temperature butter. Stir vigorously off the heat until the butter melts and the sauce emulsifies.
18. Grate in about 40 g of Grana Padano cheese and mix until creamy. If the sauce is too thick, add a little more pasta water; if too thin, add more cheese.
19. Cover the pan and let it rest for 30 seconds.
20. Plate the spaghetti, garnish with the reserved lemon zest, a few pink peppercorns, and serve immediately.