Fumo e Caffè

Dishes mentioned

• nonna al mare

  This is the classic Roman-style tramezzino — tall, tight bread, big triangular shape. I see tuna and tomatoes, so I think it's the Nonna al Mare, tuna and tomato. And they use Callipo tuna, the fillets in a glass jar — you can see the little fillet sticking out. The bread is tall and tight, nice and puffy at the front. The tomato is cut very rough, very big, very brutish. There's a lot of tuna — look how much tuna there is. So it's nice and full. I take a bite. Good. The tramezzini are made fresh, so everything is thick, everything is super fresh. One thing on the first bite: the tomato for me is cut too tall, too big — it should be cut finer, and with this tall bread I think you need more mayonnaise, otherwise the bite stays a bit dry. The tuna is really good, it's not the blended canned tuna, so it's a good tramezzino from that point of view.

• gli anni 80

  This one is with chicken salad, it's called Gli Anni 80 and costs €4.30. This is Rome — tramezzino with chicken salad, like pizza bianca with chicken salad. We in Rome love chicken salad. Always tall, tight bread, nice and puffy at the front. Let's see if there's filling at the back. No, it's quite full even at the back. See? The chicken is grilled, nice, meaty, juicy, good. The bread I like — it's very good, the salad is fresh, the chicken is excellent, nice and juicy, not dry, not stringy. I would always put a little more mayonnaise and change the mayonnaise — it's the standard white mayonnaise. But the chicken is very good, you know? You can see it's a pimped-up tramezzino, not a cheap one, not a half-hearted one. For example, not with canned tuna or cheap chicken. The chicken — see, there are even chunks of chicken. Very good, very good. It's well-crafted, nothing to say.

• Classico Prosciutto e Mozzarella

  This is the classic one — prosciutto and mozzarella. There's also a €1 extra if you want buffalo mozzarella. Nice and puffy at the front. Many layers of prosciutto. The filling reaches the back quite well, no complaints. I take a bite. A lot of bread. There's a slight emptiness on the side. On the tip. You want a more central bite with more filling? Ah, like that there's more prosciutto, more filling. Nice, much better. The cooked ham is good. Very good. Good cooked ham. Nice mozzarella. What do you want? This one is maybe tastier. I think it's the classic. Apart from the taste, it's the best composed — it has a more buttery, fuller, moister bite.

• italiano

  This one is the Italiano — tomato, mozzarella and basil. Always €1 extra if you want buffalo mozzarella. Here it has buffalo mozzarella and you can taste it, it's good. On this one and the one with ham, apart from the buffalo mozzarella which is good, the cooked ham is good too, but I repeat, for the buffalo mozzarella it's €1 extra, so that price needs to be justified, better justified. For now it's very good. There's also a veil of mayonnaise on the bread. The tomato is always cut too big, in my opinion. This I consider a mistake — it should be a little finer. It's really an excessively big piece of tomato.

• nonna pina

  This one should be with anchovies from Cantabria and peppers. It's called Nonna Pina on the menu and costs €4.80. Grilled peppers and Cantabrian anchovies, so not Cetara anchovies. The pepper is the jarred pickled kind, so it's very vinegary and it covers the flavour of the anchovy a bit, which in my opinion should come through more. It's good as a combination — it's fresh, made to order, and it's good, but for certain things like the pepper and anchovies or making the mayonnaise, maybe the guys in the future need to think about a lab where they prepare the peppers themselves. And then this pepper unbalances the flavour of the anchovy.