CODA

Dishes mentioned

• Orsetti gommosi alla barbabietola

  This is a tomato ice cream on top, with three caramelized pieces of tomato, and a sauce made from macadamia milk and oil of a special chili. At the bottom there's an iced shell of beetroot filled with tofu foam, coconut blossom crackers, a beetroot chip, and berries — only two are real cranberries, the rest are beetroot balls in their own juices, and a verjuice gel ball in cherry and raspberry. It's like a cold pasta salad but without pasta — the tomato flavor is fantastic, the tomato ice cream is amazing. The soppressata flavor comes through when it bursts. They removed all acidity from the tomato. It reminds me of Crippa's dessert with incredible textures.

• Beef cake

  The cake part is made with almond flour and sweet potatoes, which gives it juiciness and texture. Instead of butter, they use beef bone marrow. It's fresh out of the oven, so you have to eat it right away. The marrow flavor is not overpowering at all — it's like eating a meat biscuit. It's not crunchy at all, it completely melts in your mouth. The idea is crazy but brilliant.

• Tartufo (non tartufo)
• Carota visionaria (Carrot Cake)

  This is a carrot cake but completely deconstructed. It's filled from underneath with milk yogurt foam, caramelized hazelnuts, and a ginger confit. On top there's carrot green worked as chocolate, grated all over, and a sauce made from carrot reduction with vanilla. The drink is based on secateur spirit with almond spirit. You have to take all layers together — it's like ice cream but with a mandarin flavor, crunchy, and at the end you get a chocolatey note. It's incredible how they make carrot taste like chocolate. This is a masterpiece.

• Melanzana (Eggplant)

  This is an eggplant dish that looks like a dessert. The eggplant is confit as the second layer from the bottom, on top there's a chip filled with roasted pecans, in the middle there's pecan ice cream, and at the bottom a pecan biscuit. It's all complemented with liquorice salt powder. The eggplant appears in the first moment you put it in your mouth, then disappears. The salty liquorice salt gives a savory punch at first, then the liquorice comes through. It's much better than the cauliflower dessert I had before — that was cloying, this is perfectly balanced.

Dishes mentioned

• Orsetto Gommoso di Barbabietola

  I know what you're thinking — a beetroot gummy bear? But it's not cloying at all. It's savoury and playful, a perfect start to the meal.

• Caramello di Rapa e Rapa

  A caramel made from turnip — sounds weird but it's incredibly balanced. The sweetness is subtle, and the turnip adds a fresh, earthy note. One of the 15 courses, all designed to keep you interested.