Piatto
Pizza Half and Half (Cheese and Anchovies)

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Chez Étienne · Marseille
La storia
Pizza Half and Half, specifically a cheese and anchovy combination, is a classic Neapolitan-style pizza that highlights the stark contrast between mild, creamy mozzarella and the intense, salty umami of cured anchovies. Originating in Naples, Italy, this pizza is a testament to the philosophy of *cucina povera*, using simple, high-quality ingredients to create a balanced dish. The "half and half" designation allows diners to enjoy two distinct flavor profiles on one pie, a practical solution for sharing or for those who appreciate the anchovy's punch but want a milder counterpoint.
A great version begins with a perfectly charred, chewy-yet-tender Neapolitan crust, made from high-protein flour, water, salt, and yeast. The cheese side features fresh mozzarella di bufala or fior di latte, which melts into a creamy, milky pool. The anchovy side is typically topped with high-quality anchovy fillets packed in salt or oil, sometimes paired with a few capers or a drizzle of olive oil. The defining characteristic of an excellent half-and-half pizza is the balance: the anchovies should be flavorful but not overwhelmingly fishy, and the cheese should be rich but not greasy. As noted by Chef Enzo Coccia of La Notizia in Naples, "The anchovy must sing, not scream; it should complement the dough, not dominate it."
Regional variations exist, particularly in Rome, where the pizza might be made on a thinner, crisper *pizza al taglio* base. In the United States, pizzerias like Lombardi's in New York offer a similar concept, often adding a sprinkle of oregano or red pepper flakes. Food creator Luca Manfé, in his ReTubeIt review of a classic Neapolitan spot, emphasized that "the best versions let the ingredients speak—a simple San Marzano tomato sauce on the cheese side, and just a whisper of garlic on the anchovy side."
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Una pizzeria vecchia scuola, solo contanti, dal 1930, che serve una pizza unica in stile Marsiglia, semplice ma complessa, con un'atmosfera vivace.
