Bettelmatt Verticale (2023-2018)

Bettelmatt Verticale is a tasting experience centered on Bettelmatt, a celebrated alpine cheese from the Ossola Valley in Piedmont, Italy. Named for the high-altitude pastures (alpeggi) where the cows graze, Bettelmatt is a semi-hard, raw-milk cheese produced only during the summer transhumance. Its flavor is intensely herbal, floral, and grassy, a direct reflection of the wild herbs and flowers in the mountain diet.

A "Verticale" tasting presents multiple vintages of the same cheese, allowing guests to compare how age transforms its character. A younger Bettelmatt (e.g., 2018) is creamy, milky, and slightly elastic, with a gentle pungency. As it ages, the paste becomes firmer and more crystalline, developing deeper notes of browned butter, toasted nuts, and a pronounced, savory umami finish. A great verticale is distinguished by the clarity of this evolution and the pristine condition of each wheel, which must be stored with meticulous care to avoid off-flavors.

One of the most renowned venues for this experience is **Divin Porcello** in Masera, Italy, as highlighted by the guide *Where The Foodies Go*. There, the verticale is often paired with local honey, chestnut preserves, or a robust Nebbiolo, creating a dialogue between the cheese's alpine origin and the valley's wine tradition. While Bettelmatt is strictly a product of the Ossola Valley, variations of the verticale format exist for other alpine cheeses, such as Fontina or Gruyère, but the Bettelmatt version remains a benchmark for terroir-driven dairy.