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Yunnanese Ham

Yunnanese Ham at Yunnan Ham Stall

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Yunnan Ham Stall · Kun Ming Shi

The story

Yunnanese ham, known as *Xuanwei ham* after its most famous production center in Xuanwei City, Yunnan Province, is a dry-cured ham that has been produced for centuries. Unlike European prosciutto, it is typically made from a specific black pig breed native to the region, which contributes a higher fat content and a more intense, savory flavor. The curing process involves a lengthy dry-salting and air-drying period that can last up to three years, resulting in a deep red, almost mahogany-colored meat with a distinct, nutty, and slightly sweet profile.

A great Yunnanese ham is defined by its balance of saltiness and umami, with a tender, melt-in-the-mouth texture when sliced thinly. The fat should be creamy and translucent, not waxy. It is rarely eaten raw; instead, it is often steamed, stir-fried, or used to infuse broths and stocks. Luke Martin, while visiting the Yunnan Ham Stall in Kunming Shi, China, noted the ham’s versatility, describing how it is used to add depth to everything from simple fried rice to elaborate braised dishes.

Regional variations exist, with some producers in neighboring Sichuan and Guizhou provinces adapting the technique to local pig breeds and climate conditions. However, true Yunnanese ham remains a protected product, with the Xuanwei variety holding a geographical indication status. Its production is a point of local pride, and it is considered one of China’s finest cured meats, often presented as a premium gift.

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