Persiana

Persiana is a traditional Livornese chickpea stew, distinct from the better-known farinata or cecina. Its name derives from the Persian chickpea, *cece persiano*, a large, pale variety prized for its creamy texture and thin skin. Unlike the Ligurian farinata, which is baked into a flat cake, Persiana is a slow-simmered, soupy preparation where whole chickpeas are cooked until tender in a broth of water, olive oil, and salt, often finished with a drizzle of raw oil and a crack of black pepper.

A great version hinges on the quality of the chickpeas themselves—ideally the large, pale *cece persiano*—and the patience of the cook. The stew should be thick enough to coat a spoon but not pasty, with each chickpea retaining its shape while yielding a buttery interior. The final flourish of high-quality extra-virgin olive oil is non-negotiable, adding a fruity, peppery note that cuts through the legume’s richness.

In Livorno, Persiana is a humble, everyday dish, often served as a street food or a quick lunch. Bar Civili, a local institution highlighted by the food guide *Where The Foodies Go*, is a prime spot to experience an authentic version, where the stew is served simply in a bowl with bread for dipping. While variations exist—some cooks add rosemary, garlic, or a splash of tomato—the pure, minimalist preparation remains the gold standard, celebrating the chickpea’s natural flavor.