Dish

Pappardelle Sulla Nana

Pappardelle Sulla Nana at Molino Trattoria Moderna

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Molino Trattoria Moderna · Calenzano

The story

Pappardelle Sulla Nana is a Tuscan pasta dish that showcases broad, ribbon-like pappardelle noodles in a hearty, slow-cooked sauce. The term “sulla nana” is a colloquial Italian phrase meaning “on the grandmother,” suggesting a rustic, home-style preparation passed down through generations. The dish originates from the countryside around Calenzano, in the province of Florence, where local trattorias honor nonna’s cooking with simple, robust flavors.

The key ingredients are fresh egg pappardelle, typically made with flour and eggs, and a rich ragù built from ground beef or a mix of pork and veal, slowly simmered with soffritto (onion, carrot, celery), tomato passata, and a splash of red wine. Some versions incorporate sausage or pancetta for added depth. A great version is distinguished by the pasta’s texture—cooked al dente and perfectly coated in a sauce that has reduced to a velvety consistency without being greasy. The ragù should taste of long simmering, with layers of savory umami and a hint of rosemary or sage.

Regional variations are subtle but meaningful: farther south in Tuscany, cooks might add porcini mushrooms or a touch of cream, while in the Mugello valley the sauce often includes wild boar. At Molino Trattoria Moderna in Calenzano, Italia, as documented by the food enthusiast Sentieri Golosi, the dish is prepared with locally sourced beef ragù and house-made pappardelle, emphasizing the “nonna” spirit of patient, loving preparation. This version holds the ragù for hours until the meat is tender and the flavors meld, then finishes the pasta with a grating of aged Pecorino Toscano. Devotees argue the best iterations are those that taste of the territory—earthy, unpretentious, and deeply satisfying.

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  • A modern trattoria near the castle of Calenzano with excellent technique, a creative menu blending Tuscan tradition with other regional influences, impeccable service, and an interesting wine list — a place I'd happily return to.

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